Inside The Last Shangri-La: The Culture Of Bhutan

I had intended to start this piece with a different introduction. But somewhere in between, the words of a Bhutanese writer started echoing in my head and I just couldn’t shake his voice away. He’d said that every time he travelled outside Bhutan, he realized more and more how the rim of the mountains formed a security blanket for him, where everything within the range of these hills made sense and gave him values to live by.

Being a mountain lover, I could really connect with his sentiment, and the more I explored Bhutan the more I agreed with him. Bhutan has one of those unique cultures that you need to understand and unravel. Its little charms are reserved more for travellers than tourists, if you know what I mean. Here’s my attempt to give you a little glimpse into the amazing culture of Bhutan.

Decoding the Modern Royal Kingdom

By now it’s quite obvious that Bhutan isn’t one of your usual countries. In fact, it’s not just a country, it’s one of the few remaining royal kingdoms in the world – one which is in a state of flux, treading the razor’s edge between old and new, tradition and modernity, roots and wings.

You must understand that the royal family in Bhutan is deeply respected and you should keep an eye for the strict code of etiquette (they even have a term for it - Driglam Namzha) that the locals follow around them. For instance, while as a tourist you would get away with taking pictures of the royalty, a local would never do so without permission. Mind you, it’s not out of fear, but just how they think a respectful society should behave.

Weaving Oral Histories and Lost Motifs 

The other important aspect of Bhutanese culture is its literature and folk tales, which are passed on from generation to generation. For a country its size, Bhutan has 23 local languages, with Dzongkha being the national language. Growing up on grandma and grandpa tales, you will realize that all Bhutanese people are natural storytellers.

As if the languages weren’t enough, weaving in Bhutan is a form of oral history passed on from mother to daughter to keep every generation in touch with the past. This preservation of traditions is the underlying concept behind the living museum of textiles in Bhutan that facilitates the revival of lost motifs.

Washing Away Sins at a Tshechu

If you manage to time your visit in line with one of its festivals, you’re in for a real treat. Tshechu, which literally means ‘tenth day’, is a religious festival in Bhutan held across different cities on the tenth day of a month of the lunar calendar corresponding to the birthday of Guru Rinpoche. Because the exact date of the festival varies from temple to temple, you can actually catch it in different cities and witness this grand celebration carried out with masked dances (called chaams), vibrant costumes and epic performances. These dances have historical stories behind them and they are even believed to wash away your sins. While the Paro and ThimphuTshechus are huge in terms of participation, the celebrations in the villages have their unique charm.

Here’s a quick calendar to see if you can make it to one of the many festivities: Punakha in March, Paro in April, Bumthang in May-June and Thimphu in Sep-Oct. But there are multiple festivals all year round, so just check on them while you plan.

Discovering Monasteries, Monks and the Divine Madman 

Bhutan is full of monasteries and it can be a little difficult to decide which ones to see, which ones to skip. While you will see monks dressed in red robes all over Bhutan, there are two particular monks who form an important part of Bhutan’s Buddhist history.

The first one is Guru Rinpoche, also known as the founding father of Buddhism in Bhutan. It is believed that he flew from Tibet on the back of a tigress to a site which is today one of the most significant sacred sites in the country, better known as Taktshang Goemba or Tiger’s Nest Monastery. (Even if you are not particularly spiritual, this one is a must-do given its spectacular location on the cliff-side of Paro Valley.)

The other monk is the maverick saint, Drukpa Kunley, popularly known as the Divine Madman. He has been famous for his unorthodox ways of teaching Buddhism, which included singing (he was also a poet), humour and sexual undertones (he was known to use his ‘magic thunderbolt of wisdom’). If you want to understand him better, you must visit Chimi Lhakhang in Punakha, a popular fertility temple. Traditionally, women who come here seeking to be blessed with a child receive their blessing by getting hit (gently!) on the head by the presiding Lama with a 10-inches ivory, wood and bone phallus!

Fascinated yet? I suggest you plan a trip to Bhutan (summer is a great time!) and unravel this mysterious culture for yourself. In the meanwhile, if you haven’t already, go read my previous blogs on Bhutan for more travel tips!

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