WEEKEND GETAWAYS
With spring long gone and the sun cranking up the temperature, one’s thoughts turn longingly to the mountains. How to go somewhere without breaking the bank and yet enjoy a fresh, new experience?
A one word answer – Himachal. Not the been-there-done-that route of Shimla or the commercial charms of Manali, but hideaways known only to discerning travellers.
Peace and beauty all around – could one ask for more? Tirthan Valley, at an altitude of 4500 ft gets its name from the River Tirthan that flows through it, a tributary of the River Beas.
Ecotourism is the buzzword here – and about time too, as you’ll agree if you’re one of those travellers increasingly dismayed with the destructive fallout of mass tourism. At Tirthan Valley, you can opt for tented accommodation; if you’re fond of your creature comforts, there are some delightful homestays.
The range of activities here is wide enough to keep the most restless teenager engaged (it’s incredibly tempting however, to just lie back and succumb to nature’s caress ). For the gung-ho adventurer, there’s rock climbing, rappelling, mountain biking, kayaking and night treks. If you’re a hardy trekker, try the all-day hike from Goshaini to Dev Kanda Temple, situated on the valley’s highest peak. At journey’s end, you’ll be rewarded with a breath stopper of a view – the valley below and all around, snow capped peaks and the Himalayan forests.
Exploring the Great Himalayan National Park is the experience of a lifetime. Four different ecological zones converge within its relatively small area . Along with tremendous variations in altitude and geography, that translates into amazing biodiversity. From the Goshaini roadhead, trekking trails lead through sub-tropical pine forests. At about 1800 m deciduous silver and green oaks provide a welcome canopy of green in summer. Going higher, the trail passes through fir and spruce forests, flower-spattered alpine meadows and finally, plain rock and ice.
The park is home to about 180 bird species – the shy Himalayan Monal, raptors like the Golden Eagle and Himalayan Griffon, pheasants, koklas, parakeets and Oriental turtle doves. Consider yourself lucky if you spot the Western Tragopan, an endangered species that is also the Park’s symbol. At lower altitudes, you can spot Serow (a goat-antelope), Rhesus Macaque monkeys and Barking Deer. The Himalayan Black Bear, leopard and red fox prefer high altitudes.
The mountain villages near the Park afford the curious visitor a rare chance to peek into indigenous culture, one that has remained intact thanks to isolation from urban influences. Autumn is a good time to catch a local festival.
A leisurely road trip through Kinnaur is balm for the weary plains dweller. Choose from exploring tranquil fruit-growing regions to the forbidding, but sublime snowscapes of Spiti. If you’re truly adventurous, combine the two!
The latter option requires some advance planning. What’s the weather forecast during your intended trip? Rain can play spoilsport, with landslides cutting off road access. Where to stay – hotel, campsite or homestay? For getting around, the ideal option is a jeep and experienced driver. Importantly, this is not a trip for those in a hurry. The Himalayas have been around for millennia – give them due respect!
The Hindustan-Tibet Road, now boringly renamed NH-22, is the way to Kinnaur, heading east from Shimla.
Narkanda (8,800 ft) is a ski resort in winter.. A popular trek route from Narkanda, goes up to Hatu Peak through forests of fir, oak, blue pine and deodars. The view from the Hatu Mata temple is worth the climb. In autumn.
Thanedar, about 16 km off the Narkanda highway is a vast stretch of apple laden trees. Enjoy long treks through the forest and bonfires under the stars at night.
From Narkanda and Rampur, the road dips past the roaring Sutlej River to Jeori village. In summer, this route is gloriously colourful, with a profusion of jacaranda trees, conifers, orange splashes of flame-of-the-forest and stately silver oaks. Higher up is Saharan – remote, other worldly and the site of famous Bhimakali Temple. (accommodation options here aren’t much).
Chitkul, beyond Sangla Valley is a tiny village – camp here in meadows along the roaring Baspa River, within view of mighty Khargala Peak. Go trout fishing, walking or just laze in a hammock!
Reckong Peo is Kinnaur’s district headquarters, from where serious adventurers take off to the icy environs of Spiti. Kalpa village, about 20 minutes uphill, is a popular visit, for its fabulous view of the Kinner-Kailash range.
This summer, hit Himachal’s road less travelled.
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