SURPRISE ME!
Distance from Delhi: 448 kilometers
Think Rajasthan and what comes first to the usual tourist mind? Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Ajmer or even Pushkar. Only those who dig deep or have a penchant for the relatively quieter getaways (like the makers of the movie I Am Kalam) would come across the dusty but colourful small town of Bikano, otherwise known as Bikaner. Believe me, once you do, you will be smiling that quiet smile of having discovered a real gem and here’s why.
As much as we love Jaipur, we cannot ignore the fact that it is one helluva busy destination. Practically everyone from far and near flocks to it. I am also talking the likes of Katy Perry and Russell Brand. As a consequence, it’s forever crowded, expensive and has touts finding their way into the city to make that extra buck at the cost of the travellers. Want to avoid all the rush and chaos? Just go a mere 330 kilometres beyond the royal capital to Bikaner and enjoy an effervescent Rajasthan minus the crowds.
Founded by Rao Bika of the Jodhpur family in 1488, Bikaner offers a beautiful blend of a culture that is oh-so-Rajasthani: medieval architecture in a string of spectacular forts and temples, narrow lanes meandering the gently bustling markets and the ever-so-courteous people. Life moves at a leisurely pace here and no one tries to get the better of you. You can actually trust the locals to help out with a polite khamma ghani sa and guide you within the city. Shopping is a very smooth ride. One visit to the Abhivyakti or the Kote Gate market area for the usual jewellery, bandhini and lahariya fabrics and you will know precisely what I mean.
Officially the sweet and snack town of Rajasthan, Bikaner will keep your taste buds wanting more. Well, there is a reason why most mithai shops across the country have named themselves after this city. Heard of Bikanervala or the relatively new entrant Bikano? By the way, our desi food chain Haldiram’s traces its roots to Bikaner. They have a huge factory on the Ganganagar road but it’s not open to public. However, if you can request one of the employees to let you in, you might just get a sneak peek of the great bhujia-making adventure.
The less-adventurous may want to head out to the Haldiram’s store or Giridhari Lal on KEM road and boy, will you be spoilt for choice! Those with a sweet tooth won’t definitely mind a stopover at Chhotu Motu Joshi Sweet Shop or at Sankhala on Station Road to devour some rasgullas and kulfis in kesar and pista flavours. Other delicacies worth their salt, sugar and spices are raj kachori, dal bati choorma, ghewar, camel-milk tea and the list goes on…
Bikaner is every bit a royal destination as say, Jodhpur! The most imposing structure here, hands down, is the Junagarh Fort. Built between 1588 and 1593 by Raja Rai Singh, this awe-inspiring edifice beautifully marries Mughal and Rajput styles of architecture. The Junagarh Fort is the only fort in Rajasthan to have been built at a ground level and not on an elevated platform! Visit it to admire the wall paintings, the intricate stone inlays, glass and lattice works; learn about the history of the Bikaner royal family and walk through the displays of weaponry, art and ornamental relics of the past, typically each with an interesting story to tell. There is a soup spoon here that was designed such that the king’s moustache would never be the victim of soup spillage!
Next in line is the resplendent Lallgarh Palace, which was built by Maharaja Ganga Singh in 1902. Designed by a European architect, Sir Swinton Jacob, one can visibly notice a strong overlay of Victorian architectural influences. A major part of the building has been converted into an opulent heritage hotel property called Luxmi Niwas Palace. If you can’t afford to stay here, go there to dine in ekdum blue blood style! There is magnificent usta art on the old Burma teak-paneled roof and scenes from hunts have been captured along the walls telling you clearly that this is not the dining chamber of commoners. You can enjoy a dauntingly elaborate Rajasthani thali with lal maas being the main protagonist. Another stop should be at the Gajner Palace that sits pretty on the embankment of a lake. This red sandstone structure was built to serve as a lodge retreat during royal hunting expeditions.
Bikaner and temples go hand in hand. The main crowd-puller is undoubtedly the Karni Mata Temple of Deshnokh located 26 kilometers away from the city. Enough has been written about the 20,000 rats that can be spotted scurrying all over the mandir premises with devotees feeding them in lieu of getting their blessings but you really have to see it to believe it. The pious also flock to the centuries old Shivbari Temple dedicated to its namesake god. The incredible four-faced black marble statue of Lord Shiva and two huge baoris (water reservoirs) here are much celebrated.
Then there are the Jain temples that go back to the 15th century of which Bhandasar Temple is most notable. As the story goes, it was built by a Jain merchant by the name of Bhanda Shah in dedication to Lord Parsvanath and that its foundation contains 40,000 kilograms of desi ghee. Come here during the summer and the greasy floor is hard to miss. The yellow-stone carvings and the gorgeous paintings in the three-storey building are a treat to the eyes. A few smaller places of worship like Sandeshwar Temple and Laxminath Temple are well known for their carvings and night puja respectively.
Rajasthan and camels are inseparable, and Bikaner has an entire breeding farm full of them. Probably one of the largest in Asia! Technically called the Camel Research Institute, this one is about 8 kilometers away from the city and lets you enjoy camel company for a few hours every evening. The souvenir shop here sells Rajasthani footwear or mojris made from camel hide.
But if your true love lies in riding the gentle giant across the Rajasthani desert then take a camel safari. Bikaner offers a great alternative to the Jaisalmer safari and is fast catching up with tourists. These safaris range anywhere from a half-day trip to 14 days (yes, you can actually go all the way to Jaisalmer). But true camel love can be seen in the month of January at the vibrant Camel Festival. It is here that the ‘ship of the desert’ is decorated for special events like races, dances and the works.
So what are you waiting for? Explore the unexpected parts of Rajasthan on your next trip: head over to Bikaner.
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Shiv Joshi | on 28 March 2018
Hi Saba, Interesting article. Will it be okay to visit there in this upcoming weekend? Thanks, Shiv Joshi
Saba Shaikh | on 05 November 2013
Wow! That's something. I wish I had the money to buy a house in every city I really like. :) You are too kind for extending the offer. Hope I can catch up with you when I am visiting my friends in Bikaner next.
Saba Shaikh | on 05 November 2013
Sargam, thanks for sharing your feedback. You are right, there is so much more to the city that can be summed up in an 800 word article. I think I really need to visit it again.
Saba Shaikh | on 05 November 2013
I am so glad you enjoyed reading the blog. Bikaner is very dear to me for all the fond memories it has given me. Hope I have done justice to its rustic charm.
Avinash Dugar | on 02 November 2013
I liked the Bikaner city so much that I bought a house there in Shiv Valley, Nokha Road, Bikaner. The hospitality and traditional foods of Rajasthans are simply can not be ignored. The folk dance, festivals, kite flying etc. Welcome to my house to have a glimpse of Bikaner and you can stay with us as well.