Barefoot at Havelock: A Perfect Stay in the Andamans

At daybreak, I stand at the edge of the great forest where it gives way to the vastness of the Indian Ocean. Behind me is a vaulted cloister of giant Mahua trees that blocks out the sky. In front of me, a single wave rises to form a cylinder of the most impossible blue as it curls silently towards the shore. It spends itself in a huge crash and surge of white foam that races up all along the shore. There is not another soul on the magnificent Radhanagar beach.

You would be forgiven for thinking that this pristine island slideshow, repeated over and over again, is taken straight from Phuket or Bali. In fact the Andamans lie right in the middle of the giant submerged range that curves out of the rump of Burma and ends in the jaws of Sumatra. Geographically they are much closer to South-East Asia and it is only a quirk of British colonial history that makes them ours. In fact it has taken us the better part of a day to fly from Delhi and take the hi-speed ferry to Havelock Island. But that is the price of admission to the best beach in India (#16 in the world on the 2019 Tripadvisor list). Once you are there, you are captivated – nothing in Goa comes even close!

The Perks of Checking Into Barefoot At Havelock

My family and I are staying at Barefoot at Havelock which was the pioneer resort in opening up Havelock Island in 2002, and still remains the top-rated place to stay, given its prime location on Radhanagar Beach. Run on very eco-friendly terms, the resort is bereft of TV, internet or room service. We are taken to our comfortable double-story thatched cottage, with the tropical reserve forest coming right up to our doorstep. A short walk away is the main reception and lounge area, and a separate restaurant building. At night we are given torches to find our way around.

The resort offers a wide range of outbound activities, ranging from water sports like diving, snorkeling and kayaking, to trekking and trail biking on the island which the whole family can participate in. The combination of ocean and jungle that defines the Andamans is compelling for an adventure enthusiast like me and Barefoot positions itself perfectly to give the visitor an immersive experience on both fronts.  

Adventures on the Sea

We start with our scuba experience the next day, and for me it is a return to the underwater world after almost two decades.  I am assigned a fit young instructor called Avi who puts me through my review paces before leading me out for a shallow shore dive. I am appalled at the destruction of the coral reef over the years that have passed—it feels like floating through a bleached white, watery graveyard. The girls have done well enough to be allowed on the boat dive the next day, something that would not have been possible elsewhere without formal certification.  For me the third and last dive into The Oval is the best.  We follow the anchor line down into the blue depths and are rewarded with a profusion of fish—a school of sleek barracuda, an explosion of yellow-and-white Moorish idols and a few giant wrasse swimming majestically along.

That night, we slip silently towards the dark waters of the lagoon carrying our spears and torches like the native Jarawa tribesmen on a hunt.  But the spears are kayak paddles and the torches are our headlamps as we embark upon an exciting night-kayak journey along the mangrove swamps.  The paddles slice deftly through the inky black water as we fall into a rhythm and move stealthily and swiftly along. The silence and the darkness are complete, except for the occasional loud splash as something unseen slides from the forest into the waters around us.  We can hear our hearts beating faster as we turn around and race for the welcoming lights of home away from the Swamp Things.

Read More: 10 Free Things to Do in Andaman and Nicobar Islands

An Evening of Good Food & Relaxation

We celebrate the adventures of the day with a sumptuous candlelit dinner of lobster grilled in garlic butter and a bottle of Moet & Chandon.  For me, the wonderful thing about Barefoot is that every morning the fresh catch comes in and we can select from a smorgasbord of prawns, squid, snapper, pomfret and butterfish prepared exactly to our liking. We are particularly touched by the very genuine warmth and friendliness of the staff all the way down from the affable GM Sanjeev to young Pratima who recommends meals to us.  No request is too difficult for them to accomplish, and while they might lack the spit and polish of the Taj Exotica down the beach, they have the open smiles and hearts of genuine islanders.

Read More: The Andamans are Fragile. Handle with Care!

Another Day, Another Adventure

The last activity of our stay at Barefoot is stand-up paddling.  On the face of it, it seems easy enough as we lie flat on the boards and paddle with our arms beyond the waves.  But then comes the moment of reckoning for me. My instructor tells me to assume a standing position through a series of simple yoga-like maneuvers.  But this is not the safety of my immobile living room floor, every small wriggle causes the board to rock dangerously beneath me. It is a totally unnerving experience but finally, I am upright and gingerly steering the board across the deep blue water, envying my much younger and lighter daughters who are skimming effortlessly across the glassy surface. Within seconds, my euphoria evaporates as I attempt to reverse—I lose my balance and crash into the sea! Deciding that discretion is the better part of valour, I haul myself trembling onto the board and allow myself to be towed back to shore like a beached porpoise.  Behind me, the sun is sinking into the Indian Ocean in a blaze of glory and running endlessly through my head are the words “Don’t Let The Sun Go Down on Me”.

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