A Road Trip to the Heart of India: Madhya Pradesh

Four families travelling in four cars for 4000 kilometres for 14 days. An impossible journey, some might say. But here we were, taking a road trip to magical Madhya Pradesh or the ‘Heart of India’. 

Madhya Pradesh - The Heart of India

Madhya Pradesh (MP) happens to be one of my home states. It has plenty of things to offer – forts and palaces (Maheshwar, Gwalior & Orchha), jungles ((Panna, Ken, Kanha, Satpuda & Bhimbetka), temples (Khajuraho, Datia & Maihar), hills (Pachmarhi), rivers (Narmada & Ken) and lakes (Bhopal). And this was just where we travelled! However, there is much more to Madhya Pradesh than this.  

In Madhya Pradesh, there is always something interesting to see every 200-400 kilometres: and it is best to explore the region in your own vehicle. Driving allows you the freedom of time and movement (something that a train may not be able to do). Moreover, the airports are not always close to your intended destination, so you will end up hiring a car. So, it is better to opt for a road trip. Most roads in the state are in good condition. Some sections are exceptionally well developed – the national and state highways that you will use are mostly well made. However, there are sections where work is going on to make them wider or better. This leads to diversions currently, which can make driving somewhat tedious. Hopefully, once the new roads are built, driving around will become easier. 

So, now that you know the best way to explore Madhya Pradesh, let’s check out the itinerary! 

How We Started

We started from Mumbai. The Mumbai-Indore and the Indore-Mumbai legs (600 kms one way) are the best routes to reach Madhya Pradesh. This is a popular route – even a reasonably slow and cautious driver like me can cover the journey between these two cities (with reasonable breaks built-in) in 12 hours. Alternatively, you can start and end your MP trip in Indore and fly in and out of this well-connected city.

We were able to do most of the things that you will find on the table. Remember that when you are travelling long distances in unfamiliar locations, you have to keep a few things in mind - people sleep at different times, children can take time getting ready, you may simply want to rest at a place after a long drive, work can intervene which can add an unknown and uncertain variable, and finally, incidents that require your immediate attention. This means that if you can complete even 80% of this itinerary in a fortnight, you have done really well! Anything more would mean you are treading into a territory where you may be converting the holiday into work! The idea of the trip is to not only explore places but also to, as William Henry Davis would put it, “stand and stare”.

The overall journey from Mumbai to MP to Mumbai ends up being around four thousand kilometres. There are some long days of driving, and if you are not used to driving for hours, it is advisable to rest after long drives. Keep extra days as a buffer. For example, all I did in Gwalior was read Mary Clark Higgins’ “Where Are You Now?” There is nothing better than sitting on the lawns of the Taj Usha Kiran on a wintery morning with the sun at your back and reading a thriller! Most of our team did something similar at Kanha. There are times when you just need to spend time with yourself or the group.

If you chart this route out on a map, you will find that this is a full circle. This means two things: (a) you can go clockwise or anti-clockwise, and (b) you can start at whichever city you want to. For example, if you are flying in and out of MP, you can start at Indore, Bhopal, Gwalior, Khajuraho, or Jabalpur and build your journey from there.

Where to Go

In the next sections, we will let photos tell the story. 

Maheshwar: The Shiv Panchayat, the tani-bani sarees, the history of the fort and Ahalya Bai make this an interesting short detour on the way to Indore from Mumbai. Both Wikipedia and local guides say that this place was earlier called Mahishmati (so all you fans of Bahubali—go see where the history actually began).

Indore: We missed exploring the historical landmarks as we had camped in the city for both legs of our trip as the anchor destination. We had long drives coming into Indore both times. So all that we explored were the eateries at Chappan Dukan. The city and some of its surrounding areas have a lot more to offer. Since we can always come back here more easily, in a long MP trip, Indore remained underexplored.

Bhopal: The City of Lakes has a fantastic evening experience to offer in its speedboats (which is what we took) and cruises. Keep traffic in mind while reaching the boarding point, but once you are in the speedboat and can see the sun setting in the waters of the lake, the experience will be worth the effort. If you have time (we left Indore late, but you could reach Bhopal earlier in the day), definitely visit the tribal museum—Manav Sanghrahalaya.

Sanchi: This was the first of the three UNESCO World Heritage sites in MP that we explored. Find a good guide and you can happily spend hours learning about the history of the Ashokan era. For us, time just flew! One popular photo location is the angle from where the imprint on the new Rs. 200 note has been taken. If you are there, don’t miss the location.

Bhimbetka: We came to the second world heritage site in a day! Again, a good guide can help you get up-to-date with some fascinating history of humanity, going back tens of thousands of years and some very beautiful scenes to shoot. Remember you will be walking a lot at both Sanchi and Bhimbetka. Plan for that too.

Drive to Gwalior: One reason we wrapped up Sanchi and Bhimbetka in one day was that we wanted to take the Bombay-Agra road (also called AB road) to Gwalior. There is another way from Bhopal to Gwalior via Sanchi, but the AB road is a smoother drive. If you go via Sanchi (which may take you longer), you can also drop by at Udaygiri. However, in winters, it can be foggy. It is best to wrap up your drive while the sun is still out.

Gwalior: Like Indore, which was the seat of the Holkars, Gwalior was the seat of one of the other branches of Marathas – the Scindias. There is much to be seen here and I have some of the major highlights noted above. However, having driven 1,500 km, this turned out to be an ideal location to simply rest and recharge. We had heard good reviews of the hotel's museum, but we just did a short heritage walk at the hotel itself. Gwalior and the surrounding regions have much to offer. Maybe a 3–5-day trip just around Gwalior can be planned some other time.

Can you identify this deity? I thought this was a unique sculpture. I never imagined an idol with such features. And while we are at it, can you think of a good caption for this photo of the moon over Taj Usha Kiran? 

Orchha: With a quick stop at Datia Shaktipeeth, we headed towards Orchha with its famous palace and the chattris. The guide mentioned that Jahangir used this palace for only a night. There is an interesting backstory to how the idol of Ram came to the city of Orchha and why Ram is worshipped here like a king and not as a God. The setting sun offers some amazing views for photography. Even with my simple OnePlus phone, some of the photos are captivating. Interestingly, you crossover multiple times between MP and Uttar Pradesh (UP) during this drive.  

Khajuraho: It is the third world heritage site in Madhya Pradesh. The temples are fabulous. Again, keep time in mind while travelling to Khajuraho and find a good guide to understand the intricacies of the region. Most guides will point you towards erotic images and fantastic carvings on the temples. However, there are other fascinating aspects to the temples as well. There are Vamana Avatar and the Varaha Avatar of Vishnu temples built alongside the Shaivite Kandariya Mahadeva temple. The sound-and-light show in the temple complex is beautiful, but you can miss it too. We came in with high expectations for sound-and-light shows at Somnath and Cellular Jail but were a tad disappointed by the reality.

Ken Alligator Sanctuary/Raneh Falls: Raneh falls was closed, as the nearby dam did not release the water, or so we were informed. This meant we ended up at the Ken Alligator Sanctuary, located in the same location. There is an extinct volcano, which is now a lake, and there are 80+ alligators in the river. Phew!

Maihar: The trip to Maihar Mata was completely unplanned. This was a small detour on the way from Khajuraho to Bhedaghat. The drive out of Khajuraho via the Panna Reserve, especially in the early morning, is beautiful. The ropeway at Maihar ascends at a steep angle and makes one pray to the mata fervently! The view from the top is simply beautiful; if only accessing the ropeway was half-easier, the experience would have been excellent.

Dhuadhar Falls: While we missed the Raneh falls, Dhuadhar did not disappoint. The mist from the falling water comes all the way to the onlookers. 

Bhedaghat: For all those who remember the song from Ashoka, yes, this is the place to visit. We lucked out because we reached just as the last boats were about to depart. The entire system can do with some pre-booking and better management. The setting sun offers stunning views of the marble mountains. The guides have some fun, lyrical ways of reciting the story here—anyone with a working knowledge of Hindi will enjoy their puns and rhymes.

Kanha: We came back mesmerised by the beauty of the jungle and of Mother Nature who decided to send heavy rains on our way during one of our safari outings. The canter ride with open sides got us drenched. We managed to spot a tiger (though I must concede I could not identify the sleeping beauty in the rains). Deer, wild boars, Indian gaurs, fowl, and other wild animals also made the tour fun.

One very important thing you should keep in mind is the bookings for children. The safari booking on the forest website will ask you (indeed allow you only) to register those above 12 years. Only after reaching the pick-up point, you will be informed that children between the ages of 5 and 12 also require a permit. So do plan accordingly.

Pachmarhi: Situated at a height similar to Mahabaleshwar, this is the highest point in MP and the neighbouring state of Chhattisgarh (until the turn of the century, both these states were one). There is a lot to see in Panchmarhi – Bee falls, Reechgarh caves, sunrise and sunset points at Dhoopgarh, lakes (and the zip line there), stargazing, Ayurvedic dawai shop and more. Maybe we could have spent a night or two more here – it was such a serene, quiet, and beautiful place!

A Food Lover’s Paradise 

You can’t plan for a trip to Madhya Pradesh and not talk about its food! Indore is famous worldwide for its spicy, delicious, lip-smacking dishes. There is no better way to experience it all than at Chappan Dukan and its stalls. Especially on a wintry night, the hot garadus, bhutte ka kees and the cheesy potato spirals are a delight. Top that up with thandai and paan and you will be in your own foodie heaven.

At Gwalior, Taj Usha Kiran is the place to visit and stay. If you love spicy food, try the Nepalese-Marathi cuisine there and the vegetable dish with 18 spices! You will be amazed to find fantastic continental, tribal, Indian, and global cuisines in the middle of the Kanha jungle at the Pugdundee Resort. They can arrange for such a fabulous outdoor dining arrangement. At Panchmarhi, you can enjoy a chilly night with melodious and lively live music. The food experience at the WelcomHeritage Golf View in Panchmarhi is simply divine.

Lest you think you need to be budget-conscious or stay at top-end hotels to get good food, you will be mistaken. All the eateries that we stopped at had hot, authentic Indian food for all ages and palates– dhabas at Maihar and Katni, the food court at Dodi (between Bhopal and Indore), and the Badri Seth Marwadi Bhoj and Raja Café at Khajurao.

The one thing you can relax about on your trip to MP is the food. The heart of the country takes its taste palate very seriously! 

Some Driving Tips

Google Maps works in almost all places. However, it is best to call ahead and ask which route to take. For example, on the way to Pachmarhi), there were two routes – one ended up being a dead-end. Similarly, the routes in and out of Kanha required some help from the local resort. Otherwise, maps work fine in the cities.

We had a couple of instances with the potholes too. A pothole just before the last toll while entering Gwalior caused a rear tyre of a car to burst (not just puncture), and at Seoni (on the drive from Kanha to Pachmarhi), a pothole caused a car to slam the brakes suddenly, leading to an accident with the car behind. In both cases, there were no injuries or damage to any luggage. However, the cars took some beating. Thankfully, locals were cooperative and the car helplines worked. The experience can be traumatic, especially if it happens late at night.

In many places, the parking capacity cannot handle the tourist rush. Maihar and Dhuadhaar Falls are two key examples. In Kanha and Pachmarhi, you will end up driving in the local Gypsy car most of the time (though in Pachmarhi, you can access many sightseeing points without needing a Gypsy car). 

This one is not so much a driving tip as a routing one. We could have chosen to travel to Jhansi instead of Gwalior (or along with Gwalior). If we had a couple of days more, we could have planned a stop at Amarkantak – the origin point of Narmada. We missed Mandu, Omkareshwar, Udaygiri and other more famous spots in MP. Depending on your interest, you can plan to include some of these places in your itinerary.

The best part of the driving for us was that we had four cars and had four families with us. This meant we could spend a lot of time with each other at every location. In this day and age of WhatsApp calls, it is not a road trip if the passengers don’t dial in each other in a group call and play antakshari!

Hurrah, Madhya Pradesh!

MP has typically been one of the most underrated places when it comes to local Indian tourism. I hope you take this road – it is a charming one, which will offer you a wide variety of choices and memories of a lifetime!