Looking for Heaven on Earth? Head to Kashmir

It was the Emperor Jahangir, that aesthete and connoisseur of fine living, who described the Valley of Kashmir as a “paradise on earth”. Militancy bloodied its wild beauty. Now, paradise is virtually back on the map, only a road trip, flight or train ride away. The still rigorous security checks are a necessary burden; though that doesn’t lessen Kashmir’s charm one bit.

Things to Do in Srinagar

The attractions of Kashmir’s capital are all too familiar Bollywood staples. Now, experience the reality.  Nirvana is a shikara ride on the mirror-like Dal Lake (ideally, why not stay in a houseboat and enjoy the lake’s varying beauty all day?)

Srinagar is a 2000-year-old city. Its history and culture are mapped by ancient temples and mosques. Arguably its best known scenic landmarks are the Mughal-era gardens with their signature canals, fountains, cascades and flower beds; Shalimar, Nishat and Chasmashahi gardens are aging beauties; gorgeous, yet a tad faded after years of neglect during militancy’s bad times.

In and Around Pahalgam

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The Lidder Valley derives its name from ‘lambodari’ or ‘long-bellied goddess’, a reference to the swollen streams from the Kolahoi glacier that gush down the valley. In summer, the alluvial fields are a spiky, green carpet of rice fields, punctuated by white-winged terns. Villages with two-storied houses nestle amid poplar, willow and mulberry trees and the graciously spreading chinar. Walnut, pear and apple trees grow here. May/June is bird watching time – nila khosh, paradise flycatchers, golden orioles, hoopoes and cuckoos warble tunefully.

Camp down in tents by the Lidder River, savour freshly cooked trout, and breathe pure oxygen…if this isn’t heaven, what is?

About 30 minutes from Srinagar, you’re in the purple saffron fields of Pampore. The very air is redolent with spicy aromas, giving credence to the stories of Mughal rulers partying in Pampore’s saffron fields. The Lal Ded pond, sacred to Hindus and Muslims, derives its name from Lalleshwari, a 14^th century poet and mystic. Pampore’s Sufi shrine is dedicated to two saints, Hazrat Sheikh Shariffudin and Khwaja Masood Wali.

Picnic at Baisaran, a green alpine meadow on Pahalgam’s outskirts, encircled by dense forest. Plan a day trek by pony from here to Tulian Lake. At an altitude of 3,353 m, the lake remains iced over for most of the year. From its shores, snow capped peaks rise 300 m into a cerulean sky.

In summer, the road to the tiny village of Arau is a colourful strip lined with blooming balsam and stacy, while delicate ferns and herbs cling to the rocks alongside. Literally, a time to stop and smell the roses. Sleepy Arau is a pit stop for serious trekkers; its velvety meadow and fir groves, filled with birdsong, have a get-away-from-it-all ambience – perfect for poets and lovers alike.

About 25 kilometre away from Pahalgam is Sheshnag Lake on the pilgrim path to Amarnath; its luminous, turquoise waters remain frozen till June.

Avantipur Ruins

Avantipur is famous for the ruins of two 9^th century Hindu temples, built by King Avantivarman. Drop in at Bijbihara for a look at its massive chinar tree, reputedly Kashmir’s largest.

Anantnag derives its name from the mythical serpent upon which Vishnu, Creator of the Universe reclines. Its sulphur springs are known to cure ailments. During a full moon festival in September/October, residents fast and offer milk and rice to the goldfish in the largest spring, believed to be the home of the great serpent.

Close by is Achabal, Shah Jahan’s exquisite Mughal garden, completed after his death by his daughter Jahanara. Spring water flows through three stone canals, across three terraces and then becomes three cascades.

Plan a nature walk through the forests of Daksum, on the Anantnag-Simthan-Kishtwar Road. Daksum also boasts a sparkling, trout-rich stream. Ideally, stay overnight at one of the tourist bungalows.

Dachigam National Park

Dachigam National Park lies just 22 kilometres from Srinagar, perfect for a day trip. The Park sprawls over 141 sq km of varying altitudes and geographical terrain. Ideally, the colder regions of upper Dachigam are best visited between May and August. Between September and December, lower Dachigam is more accessible.

Dachigam’s endangered and most impressive inhabitant is the Kashmir stag or Hangul – a magnificent red-skinned creature with huge antlers. Further down the order are leopards, musk deer, bears, marmots and gray langurs. Keep those binocs ready for sightings of Himalayan monals, orange bullfinches, Kashmir flycatchers and rubythroats. Many different varieties of trees, shrubs and herbs can be found here. It’s not without reason that Dachigam is known as a nature lover’s delight. 

Once more, the hills are alive with the sound of music. Go visit Kashmir, now!