Puri: How I Fell in Love with Its Culture in a Day

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Distance from Kolkata: 380 kilometres

The abode of Lord Jagannath, Puri is considered one of the four dhams or Hindu pilgrimage centres in India. A beautiful destination all year round, Puri is famously known for the Rath Yatra, that will commence on 18th July 2015. We decided to stop over at Puri, an ideal weekend getaway from Kolkata, while taking a road trip across India. Here is an account of our exciting visit to the holy land:

Where Juggernaut was Born

Ever wondered how the word ‘juggernaut’ in the English dictionary came about? Well, I did and got my answer today. The word traces its roots to the massive Jagannath Yatra Chariot that is seemingly unstoppable due to its immense weight. Many accidents of people getting crushed under its wheels have taken place in the past and that’s why the English word ‘Juggernaut’ refers to an unstoppable force. The car in question is a humongous 45 feet high and 35 feet square and is newly made each year from wood as per strict religious instructions. There are two others carrying deities of Subhadra and Balabhadra. The famous procession that has devotees visiting from far and wide starts the day after. We will be in Bhubaneswar by then, so had to make peace with observing the prep work in the slight drizzle today.

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The Holy City

Parking is a hassle in and around the temple so taking an auto rickshaw is advisable. Bring down the price quoted by the driver by at least 20 bucks and you are good to go. We were dropped off some 400 metres before the temple. The walk was an enriching one as one could see the three chariots in the making and eager devotees making their way to the temple to get the divine blessings. The 11^th century Jagannath Temple stands grand overlooking the city while two statues of crouching lions guard the entrance. Part of the Char Dham, the temple allows entry to Hindus alone. Speaking to a few bystanders we got to know that the Jagannath idol is carved out of wood. Every twelve years, the same is ceremoniously replaced with exact replicas from sacred trees.

The Bazaar

Puri is not a big city. The only prominent market is the one along the Jagannath Temple area. It is here that we spotted some savoury snacks that looked really tempting from far but on closer look we had to change our mind courtesy the flies.

Odisha is best known for its intricate filigree work in silver. The many jewellery stores here give you plenty of choice. We stopped by Odisha Filigree & Handicrafts that was run by Tabrez Khan. The collection here was tasteful across a wide variety.

How can I not talk about the gorgeous cotton sarees! The nine yard wonder takes a whole new form in the hands of the Oriya artisans. The most popular designs come from Cuttack and you can have a stunning addition to your wardrobe for as less as Rs.350. Big spenders can get exquisite cotton sarees for around Rs.3,000 plus.

The Village of Artists

After Nirona, today we came across yet another village where every citizen is a remarkable artist. I am talking about Raghurajpur, a heritage village that has skilled artisans of the Pattachitra art form dating back to the 5^th century BC. It is here that one gets to witness the brilliance of natural stone colours translate into brilliant story forms from mythology right in front of your eyes. Craftsman Abakash Nayak’s house is the first one you come across as you enter the village from the right. I instantly fell in love with his artistic vision. One could see the delight in his eyes as he showed us one masterpiece after another. The paintings were reasonably priced and varied from full-fledged posters to small wall hangings and bookmarks. No prizes for guessing what I picked!

As we stepped out, Narayan Nayak, another artist escorted us to his house. His work focused on great representations of adivasi (tribal) life. His young son was charming company as he spoke to us in non-stop Oriya which his father patiently translated.

Sudam Charan Sahoo’s place was next where he proudly showed us coconuts and betel nuts converted into striking works of art. He said, “You can wash all my work with soap and water. It will be intact!”

But the sweetest of them was Pramod Kumar Das. He had done Pattachitra on exquisite Tusser silk fabrics which he presented with a shy smile in the less-than-humble hallway of his home. Upon asking the accurateness of the mythological interpretations, he replied, “We spend a lot of time with pandits and also read the scriptures.” Among his works of creation were several stacks of Ganjapa Cards that are circular in shape and have beautiful paintings on them. These were especially popular in the 16^th century and now are obtained by collectors across the world. Pramod is currently working on a Kama Sutra version.

That’s all from Puri today. Tomorrow we bring you more tales from our drive to Bhubaneswar. Check out these travel tips for your trip to Puri:

Where to Stay? Sterling (3 star), Chariot (4 star), Mayfair (5 star)

Budget: Rs 16,000 per person (inclusive of 2-night stay in a 5 star hotel, meals, basic sightseeing and transfers)

Distance from Kolkata: 380 km 

Traveller Type: Friends, Family

(Pictures courtesy Tariq Khan)