Considering a Weekend Getaway from Bengaluru? Head to Ooty!

Udhagamandalam – quite a tongue twister, what?  It’s no wonder that decades after the British named this southern hill station Ootacamund and the state government reverted to the older Tamil name, everyone still prefers the short n’ sweet nickname, Ooty.

Tucked away in the Nilgiri mountain range that runs between Tamil Nadu, Kerala and Karnataka, Ooty was first home to the Toda tribes. In the nineteenth century, two British Assistant Collectors chanced upon the place. Its salubrious climate and verdant beauty were irresistible. Buying up land (dirt cheap, at Re.1 per acre) from the indigenous tribes, the colonials built the summer capital of the Madras Presidency here. The British also established a sanatorium for their troops to recover from India’s heat, humidity and attendant tropical diseases.

It was John Sullivan, the British Collector of Coimbatore who put Ooty firmly on the map in the 19^th century.  Surveying the “Neilgherry Hills” in 1819, he addressed an ecstatic letter to Thomas Munro thus: “This is the finest country ever. It resembles, I suppose, Switzerland more than any other part of Europe… the hills beautifully wooded and fine strong spring with running water in every valley.”

Down the years, millions of travellers have echoed his delight in multiple languages. Independent India’s English-educated gentry nicknamed the hill station “Snooty Ooty”, still awed no doubt by its British ambience. Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru bestowed upon it, the gracious moniker, “Queen of the Nilgiris”. Today, Ooty’s manifold charms aren’t quite as pristine as they used to be, thanks to the ills of mass tourism – commercialisation, excessive construction and pollution. Fortunately, greater awareness of eco-sensitivity and regulation of tourism-related development have curbed these dismal trends to some extent.

But on to Ooty. Getting there is half the fun. The road route from Bengaluru (Karnataka) or Mettupalayam (Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu) twists and turns in sharp ‘hairpin bends’ once you start climbing the Nilgiris – exhilarating, if you aren’t prone to car sickness. The more romantic option is the miniature train from Mettupalayam. The 46 km ride takes 4 – 5 hours on a ‘rack and pinion’ track, with the tiny engine pushing the train up the steep ascent from the rear end. In places, the  speed is so slow,  you can hop off your seat , walk alongside the train and get right back in!  Sixteen tunnels, bottomless ravines, sparkly streams and  tea plantations unfurl in slo-mo – you don’t want to miss this ride, so book your tickets in advance and get to the station early!. Higher up, breathe in air scented with the fragrance of blue gums – the eucalyptus trees that give the Nilgiris their other name, Blue Mountains. Few would disagree with Mountstuart Elphinstone, British Governor of Bombay, who once described the Mettupalayam-Ooty route as, “One long botanical debauch”!

Ooty’s colonial heritage of quaint stone cottages, flower filled gardens and intimate lanes have long succumbed to boxy, modern architecture. Collector John Sullivan’s imprint however, exists all over.

Look out for Stone House built by Sullivan in 1822, now inside the Government Arts College. Locals call it the “Kal Bangla”. Sullivan commissioned the creation of Ooty Lake by damming a stream for agricultural purposes. Boating on the lake and a visit to the racecourse remain two of the main tourist attractions. Sullivan also kick-started Ooty’s economy, introducing tea gardens and vegetable and fruit cultivation.

The Botanical Garden, madly crowded in peak season (April – May) is meticulously kept and worth a visit for its lovely, old trees. One fossilised specimen is reportedly 20 million years old!  Ooty’s golf course, at 7,400 ft is both scenic and challenging.

Ooty’s best spots lie away from the congested town centre. These spots will especially be loved by honeymooners. Drive to Doddabetta Lookout, the highest peak in the Nilgiris at 2,633 m or Valley View at Ketty. Coonoor, about 17 km away, is a smaller, quieter version of Ooty. Stroll through colourful Sims Park, visit a tea plantation. Birdwatchers could be rewarded with sightings of Nilgiri verditer, thrushes, parakeets, skylarks, pipits and cormorants.

Pack a picnic brunch and head to Pykara Falls. From here, drive down to Mudumalai. This national park falls in the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve and is home to some 600 elephants, spotted deer, wild boars, panthers and tigers. Crocs and otters inhabit the Moyar River. Visit the tiny Toda hamlets or munds of Manimandhu or Thoodalai – only 1000  tribals survive today.

The Queen of the Nilgiris has aged, but still bears herself with grace. When you visit, do remember to tread lightly!