Agra - Beyond the Love Monument

No history lesson or a romantic storytelling session is complete without the mention of Emperor Shah Jahan’s devotion to his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. Their love was so strong that after her death, the emperor erected a tomb in her name and memory, the Taj Mahal, seen to this day as the symbol of everlasting love. This marble structure has been inspiration to many a poet’s penmanship, many a lover’s heartbreak, many a dreamer’s fantasies and many a woman’s jealousy.

So the question or the statement, 'how does one spend the day in Agra' is moot.

For if there’s one thing every romantic in this world should do, as should the unromantic, is spend a day marvelling the emperor’s obsession in ensuring that the world would talk about him and the one true love of his life for all time to come.

Situated on the banks of one of the holiest rivers in Indian history, the Yamuna River, this city is rich in historical significance to the curious tourist as well as the accidental visitor. Steeped that it was in Mughal rule, Agra is said to have links to even the Mahabharata age. The golden age of the city however began with the Mughals, and the city is famous for its Mughal era buildings. Even though you’re likely to think of Taj Mahal as the first monument you associate with this city of love, not far behind are the Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri, two other structures of bravery and sacrifice in Indian history. Together, this triumvirate form the three World Heritage sites as certified by the UNESCO.

Taj Mahal recently retained its status as one of the Seven Wonders of the World, after heavy lobbying and pushing, when the New Wonders of the World list was being compiled. Even though there was never any doubt that it would retain its rightful position, there was some apprehension, but as they say, all’s well that ends well. The Taj Mahal is said to be perfectly symmetrical and took around 22 years to make, at the hands of more than 20,000 skilled labourers. The gate features 22 domes, one for each year that it took to build it and the most elegant dome is the one that sits atop the tomb that houses Mumtaz Mahal.

Agra Fort, the fort where young Aurangzeb, the son of Shah Jahan, imprisoned him, has somewhat sinister exteriors, but makes way for interiors of great beauty. Shah Jahan is said to have gazed lovingly at his beloved wife’s mausoleum from the fort for eight years when he was jailed. The most noteworthy buildings in the Agra fort are the Diwan e Am, the Diwan e Khas and the Moti Masjid. This fort bears all the trademark of Mughal construction, with extensive use of marble and intricate designs and motifs on the inner walls.

Fatehpur Sikri, the third UNESCO site, is about 35 km from Agra, the land where Babar defeated Rana Sanga in an epic battle in the town of Sikri. The fort, however, was built by Akbar, in a bid to make it his headquarters. Owing to water shortage, Akbar had to leave it for Agra Fort.

Apart from these World Heritage Sites, there are a number of other monuments and erections that show why Agra was the Mughal capital during their reign of more than a century. The Baby Taj, Itimad ud Daulah, was built by Empress Noor Jahan for her father. Though much smaller than the Taj, this tomb is sometimes referred to as a jewel box. Akbar’s tomb, Sikandra, is about 15 kms from Agra Fort. Adhering to a Turkic custom of building one’s tomb when alive, Akbar is said to have planned and selected the site himself for this.

The Jama Masjid, a large mosque in the name of Princess Jahan Ara, daughter of Shah Jahan, is also one of the most famous structures. The Aram Bagh or the Garden of Relaxation is about 2.5 km north of the Taj Mahal, and the winds rising from the Yamuna is said to keep the sweltering days of summer cool. Adding to all this is the Mughal Heritage Walk, a one km walk that passes through some noteworthy destinations of Agra and supports local women and low income groups.

Agra is not about mausoleums and love stories alone. Today, it is home to some of the most sought after artisans for their work with marble and pietra dura, stone carvings and inlay work. The city centre palace, the Kinari Bazaar, is the street of riches, famous for its jewellery shops.

Love, as they say, doesn’t come cheap. And a visit to Agra tells you that even in a city of riches and grandeur, a king’s heartbreak speaks louder than all the richness put together.