Celebrating Holi in Varanasi

I had heard so much about the festival of Holi before I moved to India, but had never experienced it first-hand. And when I actually did, I realised that this festival of colours is in fact one of the most fun and exciting festivals in India.

For my first Holi in the country, I happened to be in Varanasi, one of the most sacred cities in India and the experience of partaking in the festival of Holi here was enriching and amazing, to say the least.

Varanasi itself is one of those places that have to be seen to be believed.  From the maze of alleyways of old Varanasi to the spectacular buildings that line along the ghats, every nook and corner of Varanasi is steeped in history and tradition. This spiritual town is one of the greatest religious sites in India.

Along the ghats of Varanasi, daily life and religious rituals exist each day in perfect harmony.

We were fortunate to be staying at a hotel overlooking the beautiful, placid Ganges. On the day of Holi, from where we stood, Varanasi looked playful and bathed in all kinds of colours. Small groups of boys wandered along the ghats, covered in vibrant hues of pink, blue and yellow. Some had funny hats on and others had painted their faces in glistening silver. Some chased their friends down the street, sprinkling bright colours on anyone and everyone they met on the way!

Looking down, it was almost like a game being played. With each hit of colour, there was laughter and a tone of mischief with each giggle. Watching the Holi celebrations from above, we could see the magnificent Ganga below, she was slowly turning from brown to pink, as people jumped in, splashed around and washed off the day.

The holy Ganga was the star of this party; she cleansed everyone and sent the remains of this party snaking down the river in a swirl of ruby, emerald and sapphire.

Later in the day, we walked along to see what had become of this spiritual city. Where once stood steely grey stone and concrete steps that had held hordes of people in solemn prayer, now there were brilliant flashes of green and red like a carpet leading to the Ganga.

Sitting at the edge of the river was a large cow. This beautiful, stately creature now looked like a brightly painted statue, with splatters of Holi covering her from head to hoof. Looking majestic, the cow appeared a bit relieved that for this year the chaos of Holi was over, and spring could come and renew again.

This year, I hope to play Holi in another spiritual centre, perhaps Mathura. I look forward to seeing what it has in store for me and how it compares to the atmosphere in Varanasi.

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