FOOD & SHOPPING
If you ever want to know what organized chaos looks like, take the metro towards Chandni Chowk. The waves of shoppers, hawkers, and tourists milling about the narrow alleyways crammed with shops, the confused lines of telephone and electricity wires overhead, and the no-nonsense air the busy marketplaces exude – Chandni Chowk is a study in chaos. Perhaps that is why tourists make it a part of their India pilgrimage; there’s really nothing quite like it.
From celebrated street food corners to the whispers of history from every other bend, Chandni Chowk – the oldest neighborhood of Delhi – is a refreshing foil to the concrete jungles of Gurgaon and the well-manicured landscapes of the city center. It’s a neighborhood that defies the strictures of orderliness, and in doing so, conjures a liveliness that is tinged with melancholy.
In an exceedingly fast-paced and urbane world, Chandni Chowk is an acquired taste. Here, we’ll show you how to spend one day in Chandni Chowk.
If Delhi is the kingdom of street food in India, Chandni Chowk is undoubtedly its crown jewel. Whether it’s the kebabs at Karim’s, the chaat and dahi bhalle at Natraj Sweets, the daulat ki chaat at Khemchand Adesh Kumar’s, or the twirly delights at Old Famous Jalebi Wala – the very best of street food, honed to perfection over centuries, awaits you here. It’s impossible to try everything that’s famous here in a single day. If you’re going to try the wide range of paranthas at Paranthe Wali Gali, forget about sampling anything else. Our advice: try a little bit of everything, and keep reminding yourself that there’s loads more to taste.
If you’re willing to brave the crowds that throng this market, you’ll discover that there’s more to Chandni Chowk than just the sinful food. Tiny shops and stalls, tinier than your college dorm, stand here selling everything from fabrics and carpets, to electronics, mementos and artifacts, homeware, handicrafts, and much else. Bargaining is expected so take your best stern face to the game, and come home with something really special.
Not many would know this, but Chandni Chowk also plays host to what is widely acclaimed as Asia’s biggest camera accessories market. If you venture down Esplanade Road towards Photo Market, you’ll run across hundreds of stalls selling camera bags, tripods, battery chargers, lenses, filters, and albums. Do check out the oldest of these stores, known as Pritam Studio. It is a nice little adventure to walk into this historical studio, where not much has changed in a fast-changing ethos. Do ensure that you know your camera parts – it’s not impossible to get spurious merchandise here. However, most of the long-standing stores sell the genuine article, at fixed rates.
The thing about Delhi is that it is strewn about with monuments, historical and cultural landmarks, manifestos to times long gone. Besides the usual suspects, even most Delhiites wouldn’t know several of these architectural reminders, covered by moss and hidden behind the foundations of modernity. Apart from the Jama Masjid and many historical shops that can trace their roots back to Mughal times, Chandni Chowk has several religious buildings and havelis that wear a grim, haunted look and beg to be explored. Try starting with the Sri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir or the Sikh gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib. Next, you could be a little more adventurous and sneak about the havelis of Begum Samru, Mirza Ghalib, and Zeenat Mahal. Definitely try visiting the Khajanchi Haveli, where most of the accountants of Shah Jahan resided. The haveli connects with the Red Fort through a long underground tunnel, supposedly built to so that the emperor’s accountants could transfer money safely to his palace.
There is simply too much to do, too much to explore of Chandni Chowk to make it all happen in a day. But for starters, these activities should suffice. So take the next metro to Chandni Chowk and tell us how you spent your day there.
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