Going Beyond Dosa in Kerala

I belong to a wonderful community called ‘foodies’ – people whose appetite is never ending, and for whom wedding parties are all about indulging in everything from chaat papdi to the decadent chocolate fountain. *sigh*

Growing up in a North Indian Rajput family, there was always plenty of rich food to pass along at the dinner table. Lately, however, I realized that food is not just digging into butter chicken, sumptuous stuffed or garlic naan, and the occasional dosa. It’s about discovering new cuisines and opening your palate to what India has to offer. What better place to start than the coastal delights of Kerala?

So when I decided to go down south for a quick break, I knew it would be a culinary journey like none other!

What’s Cooking in Kerala

Kerala, I believed, was primarily about the three Cs – coast, coconut and curry. After stepping into the streets of Cochin though, I was certainly proven wrong!

Catching an early morning flight from Delhi to Cochin can be tiring and the only way to overcome my crankiness was, of course, good food. A friend of mine had recommended Dhe Puttu on Service Road, Edapally, to start my food trail so I headed to this restaurant to curb my hunger.

Puttu, made with rice flour, coconut, and minced meat, is considered a hearty breakfast option in Kerala. In Dhe Puttu, I tried Erachi Puttu, puttu flavoured with minced meat masala, and even managed to taste the chocolate one from a whopping 18 varieties. Talk about being spoilt for choice!

The trip was off to a good start and I caught up on sleep at Vivanta by Taj Malabar, where I stayed for the duration of my trip.

Kerala Lunch with a Twist

One of the best places to try unique Kerala dishes is The Pepper at Vivanta by Taj. Usually, I swear by non-vegetarian food while eating out. However, the vegetarian options seemed so intriguing; I couldn’t help but order a few of both kinds.

I dived right into the main course and started the meal with a healthy Carrot Pachadi, a regional dish served with rice. I savoured this while my family was happy having Avial, a mix of seasonal vegetables in coarsely ground coconut, turmeric and curd.

Next, I had to make a choice between ordering Meen Kodampuli Curry, a traditional Kerala fish preparation, and Tellichery Kozhi Curry, chicken in home ground curry paste and whole spices. Keen to try a different version of my ever-favourite chicken, I opted for the latter. 

The flavours were spot on and my stomach couldn’t have been happier! Eager to step out and explore the town, I skipped the desserts for the fear of dozing off again and made my first sightseeing stopover at Fort Kochi.

Eating Like a Local in Fort Kochi

The tropical area of Fort Kochi thrives on culture and takes you to the pre-independence era with colourful buildings, bustling streets and friendly natives. As much as this place is known for spice merchants, souvenir shops, and architecture well preserved, the food options here are plenty if you want to eat like a local.

The best bet, however, is Oceanos Restaurant for authentic Kerala cuisine. The highlight of my dinner here were different varieties of seafood, local red rice and appam, a Travancore delicacy. From Kerala fish fry to sumptuous prawns, the taste of the sea came alive here!

The Syriyan Catholic Fish Pollichathu, roasted fish in a banana leaf wrap, is a must-try too. Ask the chef if he can make this using fresh Karimeen, a Kerala style pearl fish.

With all these dishes at your table, make sure to leave some room for desserts! You cannot miss out on Payasam, finely chopped coconut with condensed milk. I would recommend having Elaneer Payasam, a sweet dish with a hint of cardamom and saffron.

More Food Discoveries in God’s Own Country

The rest of my trip went by all too fast and was filled with more sightseeing than food stopovers. However, I managed to grab a quick bite from thattus or small shops that offer tasty street food. Some of these have more than 70 varieties of dosa! I visited Pai Thattukada and fell in love with Kadala curry made with chickpeas, cardamom, tamarind and other spices.

Another noteworthy trip was Madurai, where I discovered the art of temple cooking. In some of the most magnificent ancient temples, chefs prepare sambar and other traditional dishes for devotees.

As much as I want to reminiscence about the food in Kerala, all this talk about the exciting food trail has made me hungry. So it’s time for me to do what I love most – eat – and bid adieu. Goodbye my dear friends, or Pinneedu kaananam as the Keralites say, and don’t forget to book your tickets to Kerala!

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