Following the Sun Through a Heritage Landscape at Champaner – Pavagadh!

Diwali 2020 meant we had the same couple of holidays and the same urge to travel as every other year. But nothing else about 2020 was the same! We had to look, Corona-eyed, at places that were less frequented and within driving distance from Mumbai. We found the sweet spot in Champaner-Pavagadh, near Baroda. The cherry on the cake was that this was one UNESCO world heritage site in India that I had yet to see. I asked one of my Baroda friends, Sam, for help on planning the itinerary and he said, “just follow the sun”. And so, we did!  

A Dazzling Landscape

Champaner-Pavagadh is an 8-hours drive from Mumbai. We left early and took a delicious breakfast stop in Udvada. By 2 p.m., we reached Baroda and took the turn-off to Champaner-Pavagadh. These last 30 kms or so were astonishing, as the plains opened up to the Pavagadh Hill. Even from a distance, we could see the temples and old structures around its summit. And as we passed the city of Champaner, located at the base of the hill range, we felt we had entered a region of special historic significance. And it is! This is the Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park, a vast area dotted with ancient monuments.

Our hotel Champaner Heritage Resort was a bit beyond the city of Champaner, in Bhamaria village, by the backwaters of the Kada Dam. From a small island here, we watched the sun go down that day, dazzled in equal measure, by the golden water and the silver bracelets of our boatman. And we watched the sun come up again the next morning near the top of the Pavagadh Hill, at the Saat Kamaan or the Seven Arches.

The hillside is strewn with monuments from the time of the Muslim rule of Sultan Mehmud Begda and earlier Hindu rulers, notably the Khichi Chauhan Rajputs. At the very top is the revered temple of Kalimata, attracting worshippers from all over. The temple can be reached by cable cars, but we decided to skip the visit there.

A Bewitching Blend of Cultures

The rest of the day we tramped through the wilderness and saw a bewildering array of mosques. The One-Minar mosque, Shaher ki Masjid, Nagina Masjid, Kewada Masjid, Kamani Masjid. It appears that Sultan Begda, who made Champaner the capital of Gujarat in the 15^th century, spread his troops and families all across the area. Where they settled, they built a mosque. Once the city went into decline, these mosques were taken over by the forest. 

All the mosques are similar in architectural style – a masterful blend of Hindu and Islamic influences. While the domes and minarets make you completely certain you are entering a mosque, the Hindu motifs and carvings inside, throw you off totally. 

Our guide told us that Sultan Begda did not have access to any Islamic artisans and he basically had to rely on local ones. These artisans went wild making what they knew best. And the result is that the Champaner city is “the only remaining complete and unchanged Islamic pre-Mughal city”, as quoted by UNESCO.

Time to ‘Follow the Sun’!

With the sun following us, we went from one awe-inspiring monument to another, covering mosques, step-wells, and fortifications. We spent many delightful moments just watching trucks, trams, rickshaws, people crossing the gates of the walled city.

Finally, we saw the sun setting from the Vadatalav Lake in a majestic glow of light behind the Pavagadh Hill. This ‘follow the sun’ itinerary was really a wonderful gift and guide from Sam. It gave us a compass and companion, even when he wasn’t around. We felt also the presence of many other people who had invested time and energy in preserving this unique place.

Picture Credits: Sameer Khera

Our guide Manoj Joshi’s father Ghanshyam Joshi has passionately recorded the monuments, contributed to archaeology books and played an important role in lobbying for UNESCO status for the area. Rahul Gajjar, whose name came up several times, has photographed and organised events to highlight the importance of the monuments here. And the Sarvaiyas, affable owners of Champaner Heritage Resort, who are restoring their property and making it possible for more people to stay a few days and take in its beauty.

As Manoj ji told us, the Pavagadh Hill range has many more monuments to behold. But we had to leave the next morning. So, as the sun rose, we pottered around the mango groves and village ponds, leaving the boat people to their centuries-old rituals. We are, after all, only passers-by. But this treasure remains, a breath away, for the people here and I hope they forever take care of it.

Picture Credits: Hardeep Singh, Instagram @_hardeep_sp