Where Better than Varanasi to Explore Hindu Philosophy, Mysticism and Yoga?

A place where people go to die. Incredibly, for a city whose raison d’être is the dark business of death, Varanasi assaults the senses with colour and life; its magnetic appeal draws thousands of fascinated visitors from around the globe. The city gets its name from the confluence of two rivers here, Varuna and Asi. For devout Hindus, Varanasi, Benares or Kashi, as it is varyingly known, sits on the cusp of two worlds – the material and the spiritual.

The bathing ghats along the River Ganga are arguably the most iconic image of the city, celebrated in films, literature and coffee table books worldwide. For the visitor, an early morning boat ride is a magical introduction to Varanasi. Mellow sunrays bathe the ghats and temple spires in gold – an achingly beautiful sight. Starting from the Dasaswamedha Ghat in the south, sail up to Harishchandra Ghat and back, a one hour ride. Pilgrims and ascetics crowd the steps for a dip in the river; it’s the spiritual opportunity of a lifetime, when the faithful literally wash off their sins in the sacred water. Bathers, worshippers, paan and flower vendors, touts, masseurs and loungers – like the river flowing past, daily life on the ghats shifts and flows unceasingly.

Further north of the river are the “burning ghats” – Manikarnika being the main one – where cremation rites are carried out. The evening Ganga aarti is both ancient ritual and spectacular theatre – watch it from a boat or the ghats. Of the 80 odd ghats along the river, the best known are Dasaswamedha, Manikarnika, Harishchandra, Kabir and Asi Ghats. Walk through them for an unforgettable trip through history, legend, ritual and culture.

As the world’s oldest living city, Varanasi is but naturally, the abode of Lord Shiva, Hinduism’s oldest deity. The Kashi Vishwanath temple, dedicated to the Lord of the Universe, dominates Varanasi’s spiritual landscape with its gold-plated spire. Destroyed by invaders more than once, the temple has been rebuilt by the faithful. On the site of the original temple stands the Gyanvapi Mosque, erected by the fanatical Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. Look for remnants of the older temple’s lovely artwork on the mosque’s western wall.

The 18^th century Durga temple, built by a Bengal queen has beautiful multiple tiers of spires built in the Nagara style of northern India. A visit to Sankat Mochan Temple, sacred to Lord Hanuman, is thought to relieve one of suffering; it was founded by Tulsidas, author of the epic Ramcharitmanasa.

Where better than Varanasi to explore Hindu philosophy, mysticism and yoga practice? As the pulse-point of Hinduism, the city is home to ashrams and maths founded by seers and wise men down the centuries – for samplers, there are the Shankaracharya Math, Ramakrishna Mission Sevashram, Sanatan Gaudiya Math and Dharm Sangh.

The city is host to some of India’s best known classical music traditions. Catch a performance by some leading lights for another kind of spiritual sojourn. Come visiting during festivals like Mahashivratri, Deepavali or Naag Nathaiya to watch the enactment of ancient myths.

There’s more than one way to soak up Varanasi’s unique brand of spirituality. Just be there.