Not Been to Northeast India? It's Never too Late

India’s own Wild West actually lies in the opposite direction, the region known as the Northeast, or as every geography textbook will inform you, the Seven Sisters – Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Tripura, Meghalaya, Nagaland, Mizoram and Manipur. Apart from these contiguous states, the Northeast also includes Sikkim and northern districts of West Bengal – Jalpaiguri, Darjeeling and Koch Bihar.

Getting there and...is it safe?

A flight from the hurly-burly of Kolkata takes you into another world of verdant mountain ridges, wildlife sanctuaries, tea plantations and a colourful patchwork of tribal cultures and serene monasteries.

Complex politics and insurgency movements have troubled this beautiful region for years. However, it’s not as if the entire Northeast is a war zone. Keeping an ear to the ground helps; if local news bulletins are troubling, leave for safe spots like Sikkim or Darjeeling.

Assam

Guwahati, the state capital is where travellers typically begin their encounter with the Northeast. Flanked by the great Brahmaputra River on one side and lush green hillsides on the other, Guwahati is a curious blend of spirituality and commerce. It’s the business hub for the Northeast and services the region’s oil industry besides hosting the world’s largest tea auctions.

The ancient Kamakhya Temple is famous for its Hindu Tantric traditions and Shakti worship. The 16^th century Umananda Temple, sacred to Lord Shiva, is on Peacock Hill, an island in the Brahmaputra. In 1977, archaeologists stumbled upon the ruins of a 11^th or 12^th century temple complex in Kamrup district, About 40 km from Guwahati are the 11^th or 12^th century ruins of Madan Kamdev Temple, named after the Hindu god of love thanks to its erotic sculptures. A lush garden filled with medicinal plants adds to its charm.

Arguably the best reason to visit Assam is Kaziranga National Park.  Kaziranga’s top-ranked inhabitant is the Great Indian one-horned rhinoceros, followed by elephants, tigers, panthers and a huge bird population. Its lush, unspoilt 430 square kilometres, covered with deep forests, elephant grass and marshland is best seen on elephant safari. Other options – boat safari on the Brahmaputra or a jeep drive through the Park.

Arunachal Pradesh 

How grossly unfair that Arunachal Pradesh is invariably in the news for the wrong reasons! Between icy, Himalayan peaks to its north and the Brahmaputra plains in its south are five, emerald valleys watered by snow-fed rivers. Arunachal’s wild beauty is complemented by its rich mosaic of tribal culture and ancient traditions of music, dance and crafts.

The road to Tawang – India’s largest Buddhist monastery – winds past pine, oak and rhododendron forests, crossing Sela Pass at 4,250 m, a drive worth the price of your holiday. En route to Tawang, the Bomdila Monastery offers serene views of apple orchards and snowy peaks. There are orchid-growing centres to visit besides a well stocked craft centre.

At Itanagar, Arunachal’s green and pretty capital; it’s hard to tell where the city ends and the forest begins. Itanagar Wildlife Sanctuary is home to langurs, black bears, musk deer and hoolock gibbons – lucky visitors could spot a red panda.

Meghalaya

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Meghalaya’s capital, Shillong was a resort favoured by the British for its resemblance to the Scottish moors. Outdoor activities are aplenty in the “Abode of Clouds” – angling for carp and mahseer at Ranikor, Umngot or Kynshi (prohibited during the monsoons), boating on the beautiful Umiam Lake, trekking, caving in the limestone hills of Jowai and golfing at Shillong’s natural golf course. October/November is harvest festival time when you can catch the Khasi Nongkrem Dance.

Manipur, Tripura, Mizoram

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These tiny ‘sisters’ can keep one surprisingly busy from camping/trekking across densely green hillsides, visiting ancient temples and shopping for exquisite tribal crafts. Manipur’s spring festival of Lai Haraoba in April/May and Mizoram’s agrarian festival, Kut are filled with music, colour and dance.

Nagaland

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Famed for its fiercely independent culture, Nagaland has a history of heroism.  The Dzoukou Valley, 2,470 m above sea level is a canvas of wildflowers and rhododendrons from November to March, perfect for trekking and camping. Go angling in the abundant rivers or explore Intaki Wildlife Sanctuary. Nagaland offers great shopping options from the distinctive Naga shawls to a wealth of bamboo crafts.

Anywhere in the Northeast, infrastructure for travellers is basic – just don’t expect to be pampered. Against this, there are the positives – an unspoilt environment, fabulous wildlife, plenty of adventure and a genuinely friendly populace who don’t gyp unwary travellers. If there’s an inner explorer in you waiting to hit the trail, the Northeast is where you should be.