WEEKEND GETAWAYS

The Hidden Gems of Daman and Diu

Devika Khosla

Last updated: Sep 18, 2024

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Daman and Diu, two jewels tucked away on India’s west coast offer an intriguing mix of cultures, heritage and a wildly beautiful landscape to explore.

Daman and Diu are invariably mentioned in the same breath. Administratively, they constitute a Union Territory; geographically though, they are two distinct coastal enclaves separated by about 750 km. Daman is located in the Gulf of Khambat (Cambay), while Diu is a miniscule island off Gujarat’s Kathiawad coast. Along with Goa, Dadra and Nagar Haveli, they were Portuguese strongholds for over four centuries, until they were declared independent of colonial rule in 1961.

Daman

The history of Daman reaches all the way back to the Maurya Empire – archeological finds point to its existence during the time of Emperor Ashoka. Centuries later, goes the story, a violent storm at sea diverted a Portuguese ship en route to Hormuz in the Persian Gulf, to the shores of Daman – the beginnings of colonialism. Many battles later with local rulers, the Portuguese conquered Daman in 1559.

To reach Daman, out of state visitors travel to Vapi in Gujarat – well connected on the western railway to the rest of country – from Vapi station, Daman is a 20-minute taxi ride away. The nearest airport is Mumbai.

Damaging River divides the town into two distinct areas – Moti Daman (Big Daman and Nain Daman (Little Daman). Give yourself a couple of days to explore Daman’s Portuguese heritage and beaches.

The moss-walled Fort of Moti Daman dominates the landscape, a massive 30,000 sqm sprawl, whose construction began in 1559 AD and went on till the end of the 16^th century. Spend a pleasant morning wandering around the neat, well maintained grounds which house the Governor’s residence, a church, post office, hospital, and nunnery. The quaint cottages were home to the Portuguese gentry. The newish road that girdles the Fort is now a popular promenade.

The large, still impressive ruin visible from the fort wall was once a Dominican monastery and flourishing centre of theological studies; history is silent on how it declined. On the third Sunday of December, a public mass is held to commemorate its patron, Saint Dominic.

The seventeenth century Church of Bom Jesus has a dramatic, beautiful altar featuring painted sculptures of seven Christian saints, set into arches. The glowing, colours, which look as good as new, are thought to be from the original paint. Another nearby church you could visit is the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary.

Cross the bridge over the Damanganga to get to the smaller fort of Nani Daman. An impressive statue of Saint Jerome welcomes visitors at the large gateway. The only building of importance that survives inside the fort today is the Church of Our Lady of the Sea. Nani Daman’s fishing jetty is a picturesque hangout.

With Gujarat being a dry state, Daman attracts gaggles of weekenders – hence, the development of facilities like the Damanganga Tourist Complex, catering to just about everyone from family groups to conferencewallahs. The Mirasol Water Park within the Kadaiya Lake Garden features a battery of rides and games.

From pony and camel rides on the beach to tipplers filling up the many restaurants and hotels nearby, Devka Beach sees a lot of weekend action. The waters also hide rock formations; if you prefer quieter places, head to Jampore Beach, where you’re more likely only sighing casuarinas and waves crashing onto the soft sand. It’s safe for swimming too.

Diu

Water fort daman diu — Photo Credit: Vijay Bhadani/wikimedia commons

Regulars will tell you that driving to Diu is the ideal travel option, thanks to the excellent highways leading here from Gujarat. Riding along Diu’s only highway, Bunder Road is undoubtedly a great way to start your holiday. The beach road, deliciously close to the sea at some points, is a fine welcome.

But Diu has more to offer than sunshine, seafood and inexpensive bars. A multicultural heritage and rich, natural treasures are unexpected joys to explore. Hire a moped or scooter and get around at your own pace.

The Fort of Diu has a spectacular, 180-degree view of the Arabian Sea. Its Portuguese engineers used the surrounding creek as a moat; on three sides, the fort’s bastions drop down steeply to the sea below. Walk through this imposing, 16^th century sentinel, admiring the huge lighthouse, majestic stonework and grim-mouthed cannons that once repelled Ottoman invaders.

A tourist boat will take you to Pani Kotha – literally, “Water Fort” – about one nautical mile out at sea. A tiny chapel in honour of Our Lady of the Sea and a lighthouse are the only structures that remain on the fort that legend says, was once connected to the main island by an undersea tunnel.

Nagoa Beach curves into a perfect horse-shoe, a serene spot for swimming, water sports and just chilling out. Look for the lush Hoka trees, a type of branching palm species native to Mozambique, introduced into Diu by its former Portuguese rulers.

On weekends, Nagoa fills up with vacationing families. Beach dhabas serve Gujarati thalis and snacks. Try some hoka fruit; it’s difficult to chew, but the delicious flavour makes you persevere. From Nagoa, on the road leading to Vanakbara is a Krishna temple and a small lake. Behind the temple, look for the sign leading to a “Rukhda”, a massive baobab tree.

Not far from Nagoa is a lush reserve forest. Venture in and you could spot nilgai, sambar deer and a host of birds. However it’s risky going deep inside the forest – leopards from Sasan Gir are known to occasionally stray in here.

A must-see near Nagoa is its unique Seashell Museum. Its unprepossessing exterior houses some 3000 fascinating exhibits of sea creatures. Close to the museum are hoka forests offering safe nature walks.

Ghogla Beach, quite simply, is divine. Virtually devoid of “development”, the soft sandy shore and ocean seem to go on forever. The skyline is interrupted only by Diu’s fort and white church steeples. To get here, cross a bridge into Ghogla Peninsula, passing through the village still lined with ancient, Gujarati havelis.

Jallandhar Shrine, on a hillock about 1 km from the town is named after the demon who is believed to have been vanquished here by Lord Krishna. The Gangeshwar Temple, some 3 km from Diu has five Shivalingams which are washed by incoming tides – this holy spot is said to have been visited by the Pandava brothers of Mahabharata fame.

The whitewashed, intricately worked structure of St. Paul’s Church, inside Diu Fort, is an impressive sample of baroque architecture. Rich woodwork and aged, but still intact paintings make it one of the best preserved Portuguese churches in India. St. Paul’s is one of three such churches offering full services. The Church of St. Francis Xavier now functions as Diu’s hospital.

Save half a day for exploring the town. Within its massive, containing wall lies a maze of narrow streets, fortunately devoid of traffic. Houses, bars and shops are lined up cheek by jowl, an eclectic, happy mix of Gujarati, Portuguese and Parsi architecture. Keep your eye peeled for the odd glimpse of a once grand mansion or a lovely stained glass window.

Relatively unexplored attractions and loads of unpretentious charm make Daman and Diu two happy getaways. Size doesn’t matter, as you’ll agree after exploring their hidden treasures.

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Devika Khosla

Devika’s always going ‘somewhere’. Obsessive foodie, spa junkie, animal lover, mountain goat and global citizen. That’s her story.

Comments

narendra kochar | on 10 December 2010

I had deposited a cheque no 042110 issued by MAKE MY TRIP dated 12/06/2008 for Rs 10000/- for REVALIDATION on 26 th October 2010 which could not be encashed for some reasons .

Today ie on 10 th December 2010 ie after more than one and half months on enquiry to their Kolkata office where the cheque was deposited i am told it will not be before february that the cheque will be reissued .

This shows the level of bad service and financial management and customer service at Make my Trip .

Pay immediately but collect as per their choice seems to be the Rule .

It is strange that such matters in a Company boasting of High automation , validation of such transactions take such time