OFFBEAT
Distance from Guwahati: 228 kilometres
Fresh from its puddle bath, the calf happily frisks along the edges of the towering elephant grass. Raising dust with short bursts of speed and abrupt halts seems good sport to him. A few metres away lies the mother, keeping one lazy eye on her child, thick hide quivering in a half-hearted attempt to dislodge the stubborn crows hunting for vermin on her back. The afternoon sun beats down fiercely upon mother and son. It’ll soon be time for another bath.
It's yet another day of rhino-watching at the Kaziranga National Park in Assam.
Often called the 'Serengeti of the East', Kaziranga is hailed as India's greatest wildlife conservation success story. Its hues change ever so often across 430 square kilometre of expanse, with marshlands meeting tropical forests and dense elephant grass – interspersed with tiny pockets of water not unlike the one used by mama rhino and her calf for one of their routine showers. It is for this reason that Kaziranga has been labelled a veritable 'biodiversity hotspot'.
Read more: 10 Must-Dos in Assam
Yet, if it weren’t for a British Viceroy and his admirably persuasive wife, the Kaziranga project may never have come to fruition.
It was back in 1904, the story goes, that Mary Curzon, wife of the then Viceroy of India Lord Curzon, was visiting the region. Assam was renowned for its rhino population, but Mary couldn’t find any. Appalled at the rhinos’ scarcity, she convinced her husband to build a sanctuary and save their dwindling numbers. With that, the Kaziranga sanctuary came into existence in 1905.
Corbett and Ranthambore have their tigers, while Bharatpur has its birds. Kaziranga has both, with the added plum of hosting over 70% of the world’s population of the rare one-horned rhinoceros.
A visitor to the park has two options to witness the rich fauna in action – via jeep or elephant safaris. Rhinos, elephants and swamp deer are a common sight on either trail, while tigers – masters of stealth amid the tall elephant grass – are decidedly harder to spot.
Elephant safaris are for those who prefer a more languid pace. Strike a rapport with the guide (or mahout) and he may tell you the tale of Kazi and Ranga, lovers from a nearby village who eloped into the forest, never to be seen again. It is one of the legends associated with the mystery behind Kaziranga’s name. The region is a paradise for birdwatchers; apart from spotting the rare species such as the Bengal florican, the avian enthusiast may also catch sight of migratory guests from as far away as Siberia.
Why visit Kaziranga? For the rhinos, tigers and birds? To experience all the biodiversity? Or simply for the bragging rights? For me, the lure of Kaziranga lies in the hope it gives. The hope that man does care for life around him. The hope that mother and calf will be found at play near the puddle for years to come.
Buy: Handicrafts, silk clothing and traditional artifacts are sold in the area. With around 26 shops in and around the Park, you have plenty of options.
Getting There The LGB International Airport in Guwahati is the best way to reach Kaziranga. From there a five-hour drive on roads devoid of any surrounding greenery, is followed by a stark change of scenery as you approach the Park.
Approximate Budget Rs.20,000 per person for 2 days (excluding flights)
Book Your Kaziranga Holiday Now!
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