Finding Moksha in Varanasi:
A Guide

40 Cities, 17 States, 65 Days: Follow the entire My Way On Highway road trip here.

The Day 62 blog should technically begin with how the specific day went, but I am going to take a slight detour from that norm. Don’t blame me because I have been hit by the mesmerizing spectacle that is the city of Varanasi! My husband Tariq and I got back from the ghats (steps leading to the river) late last evening after having seen for our own eyes the colours, chants and chaos of the traditional prayers. So let me begin from 6 pm of Day 61 when we took a rickshaw from our comfortable abode at Hotel Varuna International.

Older Than Time

Known as Kashi and Benaras in the days gone by, Varanasi is the place that forms the centre of the Hindu universe. Regarded as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on Earth, it has devotees of all ages coming in hordes to take a dip in the holy Ganges and cleanse their selves of a lifetime of sins. And more significantly, to cremate their loved ones. Pilgrims counting their last breath move in here to die as it is believed that Varanasi offers the gateway to moksha.

A word of advice: Just go unprepared and you shall return carrying the vibrant beauty of the city to remain with you forever. After all it was Mark Twain who said, “Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together.”

A Grand Offering

The older part of Varanasi has flourished on the banks of the Ganges with the ghats forming an integral part of the architecture and that of the people flocking there for purification and salvation. There are nearly 100 such ghats for believers to access the sacred waters from. However, if you are pressed for time, then head straight to the Dashashwamedh Ghat, which is regarded as the most striking ghat of all. Situated very close to the famous Vishwanath Temple, it has many legends associated to its grandeur. One says it was created by Lord Brahma to welcome Lord Shiva. Another says that Lord Brahma performed a massive yajna here sacrificing 10 horses. Every evening, a group of priests perform the Agni Puja to appease the fire and sun gods, Lord Shiva and River Ganges. It is a sight to behold and remember.

A few minutes before 7 p.m., you can see the audience trickling in from all sides to find a comfortable spot, especially on the steps, to appreciate the aarti.

I have to admit that the prayer ceremony was organized and performed beyond my expectations. The crowd was managed well under the strict vigilance of the police while volunteers at the temples ensured that the ceremony proceeded smoothly. The young priests took part in the action dressed smartly in traditional dhoti and kurta maintaining the solemnity of the occasion. A performance for the senses, it involves a lot of movement on the part of the priests while chanting in a mellifluous tone. As an audience, I was in a state of trance!

From Varanasi to Khajuraho

The morning of Day 62 had us taking off on the 460 kilometres towards our next destination – Khajuraho. Our route was Varanasi – Fatehpur – Banda – Lavkushnagar – Khajuraho. Believe me, it was one of the most painful ones as the highways went through busy bazaars and then the last leg from Lavkushnagar was nothing but bumpy kachcha road of 22 kilometres that took us about 2 hours to cover. In other words, the complete journey was intended to be wrapped up in 6.5 hours but we took full 10. The charming property we are staying at offers great relief. Yes, Ramada Khajuraho is a theme for a dream. We were welcomed by a gracious staff and now comfortable in our room. Think I should call it a night for tomorrow is going to be a busy day exploring Khajuraho. See you then!

(Aren't the pictures beautiful? Thanks to Tariq Khan for his patience.)