Nalanda: Much To Learn...Even More To Explore

Saurav Prakash

Last updated: Apr 3, 2017

After spending a spiritually enhancing day in Bodhgaya, I turned my attention to the place that epitomized Indian renaissance - Nalanda. I remember the times when my parents rebuked me. They happily (and with the intent of provoking me to studying more!) pointed out that the time I spent on my studies was nothing but scandalous when compared to the countless hours spent on acquiring knowledge by the ancient scholars of Nalanda. Well, now I was on my way to find out for myself what the fuss was all about.

Nalanda can be reached by flight or by rail. The nearest airport is Patna (89 km from Nalanda) and the nearest railway station is Rajgir (12km). Once you land in Patna, you can either take a train or a bus to Nalanda. Since I continued my journey from Bodhgaya (110 km), I booked a cab to Nalanda. When I reached Nalanda, I could see the ruins of a city which once had been splendid. At first glance, Nalanda turned out to be a nondescript town on the outskirts of its more affluent neighbor, Rajgir. But on closer scrutiny, I could see the visage of rich culture and tradition that this place harbors. From the 5th till the 12th century, Nalanda flourished as one of the greatest university and an important Buddhist center.

Chinese scholar and traveler Xuan Zang visited Nalanda in 685 AD and gave a detailed account of the ancient Nalanda University,thus putting it on the world map. Though it would be blasphemy to say that my trip to Nalanda was sort of like Xuan Zang’s, nevertheless, I intend to bring the glory of Nalanda to my readers.

Pressed for time, I decided to explore the town some other time and headed straight for the few locations I had on my must-visit list.

The Nalanda University Archaeological Complex This was the place where the mighty scholars of a bygone era acquired knowledge and higher learning. Though only a thin shadow of its old resplendent self, the place still carries the aura befitting a place of higher learning. The Nalanda University, a shining edifice in Indian history, was established under the patronage of the great Gupta rulers. In its heydays, as is recorded by Xuan Zang, the Nalanda University housed over 10,000 monks and 1,500 teachers. Though known as a Buddhist center of learning, Nalanda University imparted education on Brahmanical subjects, philosophy, grammar, Sanskrit, theology, astrology, medicine, mathematics and tantric studies.

At present, the total area of excavation at this site is 14 hectares dotted with opulent gardens and red edifices. The buildings are divided by a central walkway, the monasteries or Viharas are located to the east of this central alley and the temples of Chaiyas lies to the west. The Vihara-1 for me was perhaps the most striking. It has cells on two floors built around a central courtyard with steps leading up to what must have been a dais for the professors to address their students. I got a guilty sense of joy at the prospect that even in those days the students were not spared from the long lectures of their professors.

Nav Nalanda Mahavihar Nav Nalanda Mahavihar was set up by the then Bihar government in 1951 as a modern center of Buddhist thought. The institute was established with the motive of spreading the Buddhist philosophies among the modern generation. I was delighted to see that there was a good mix of both Indian and foreign students here. One of the students, a teenager from Malaysia, asked me if I was making a documentary. I told him I was on a journey, trying to discover the lost magnificence of the once mighty Magadh Empire. The teenager wished me luck and gave me direction to my next stop.

Nalanda Archeological Museum Dedicated exclusively to exhibit relics from the ancient Nalanda University, this museum is a treasure trove of knowledge and a treat to flickering eyes. It has on display, age old relics of the Pala art emphasizing that creative art at Nalanda University was given due importance. The museum has four galleries that has on display 349 of the 13463 antiquities excavated. Most of the artifacts reflect the Buddhist, Jain and Hindu ideologies. The sculptures assorted at the museum are reflective of the attire, ornaments, and the intricacies of the social life during the Pala period. Well, I was increasingly becoming desirous of putting on some of the ancient accessories and taking a snapshot. Since I was not allowed to do so (my arguments that I was a descendant of the Pala period did not carry much weight with the museum in-charge), I traced my steps towards another one of Nalanda’s gems.

Xuan Zang Memorial Hall This memorial hall is a tribute to the Chinese scholar and traveler. Xuan Zang’s glorious account of Nalanda and its patrons help put Nalanda on the world map as one of the best centers of higher learning during the ancient times. The Xuan Zang Memorial Hall was built by Chinese as a peace pagoda. There is also an international centre for the study of Buddhism established in 1951. Personally, I had longed to see this place and know more about Xuan Zang who, unlike me, could travel as much as he wanted for as long as he wanted without worrying about job and related mundane things.

Exhausted from the all-day excursion, I settled in my hotel room for a good night’s sleep. In the morning, I had plans for paying a long overdue visit to Rajgir.

Saurav Prakash

Comments

D>Mukherjee | on 18 January 2012

Some Value additions to the article:-
1.In rajgir there is Jarasands Khazana which coud not be opened even by bombing .
2.In rajgir hills you can find Charriots wheel marks
3.japnan built Budha Shanti Stoopa in Rajgir connected with a ropeway whhere Jony Mera Naam was shot
4.First Chancellor of Nalanda University was Deepankar
5.In nalanda ruins you can find deep wells from where studenta could draw water from 3rd storie of hostel
6.The university was destroyed in a fire and burnt rice found in excavatiom is kept in muesum