4 Reasons Why You Should Visit McLeodganj

Overheard at McLeodganj:

• ‘None of this Tibetan thukpa nonsense. Let's find a nice North Indian restaurant.’ (Family from Delhi)
• ‘Triund trek was epic. My guide ran two kilometres down a mountain trail—in the middle of the night, did I mention—just to fetch a bottle of McDowell's.’ (German tourist)
• ‘Mumma, who's that bald man in the red gown?’ (Child pointing towards monk)

McLeodganj is like that piece in the jigsaw that doesn't quite fit. On the one hand, there's the rest of Himachal, with its verdant pines, the Dhauladhars in the distance, quaint roadside chai stalls with their typical weak, milky tea and local gaddi herders commandeering a few hundred sheeps on a winding mountain road...and on the other, there's Mcleodganj.

Arguably the cosmopolitan capital of the state, McLeodganj, or 'Little Lhasa' as it’s sometimes called, is where an air-conditioned Pizza Hut meets the rickety benches of a Shiva café plastered with Bob Marley posters.It’s where the chaotic logjam of the main chowk meets the pristine stillness of Triund, where lamas meets locals and Punjabis meets Portuguese. In short, it’s a dazzling, and at times bewildering, kaleidoscope of colour, culture and cuisine in what started off as a refuge for the 14th Dalai Lama and his Tibetan refugees.

So, why visit McLeodganj?

For the Food

Most of the restaurants and cafes in McLeodganj have outdoor seating with stunning views of snow-clad peaks and towering deodars, so you won't be staring at your phone while waiting for your food to arrive.

Apart from the usual suspects like Tibet Kitchen and Kailasha restaurant, known for their Tibetan delicacies, try out Olives Restaurant, for its pizzas, and Khaana Nirvana, for decent food and free Wi-Fi, on Temple Road. Also recommended are the chaat and samosas at Fakirchand's, further up the path.

Indique and Moonpeak cafes, with their outdoor seating, are perfect to nurse a beer and read a book whereas Ashoka Restaurant (on Jogibara Road) stirs up a mean Chicken Masala curry for those dilliwallahs who long for a taste of home.

For the Treks

 

There are four basic trails/treks from McLeodganj that you must try:

The Bhagsu Waterfall Trail: This is a can-do for anyone. Just walk from the main chowk tothe Bhagsu Temple (or take a cab). From there it's a simple walk along a pathway with railings towards the main waterfall. It's crowded, sure, but gingerly dipping your feet into the icy-cold water makes it worth the effort. And if you’re feeling hungry after the trek, Shiva Cafe is just a fifteen-minute hike above the waterfall.

Naddi: Walk (or take a cab) towards Dharamkot, about 5 kilometres from the main town. From there, it's an hour-long trail through the forest towards the village of Naddi. Visit the sunset view point and take a bite at one of the many cafes around the area afterwards.

Triund: The most popular, albeit longest, trek of the bunch. Three hours uphill from Guna Devi temple will get you there. Do stay the night at Triund. The alpine meadow has superb views of the Dhauladhars on one side and the Kangra Valley on the other..You'll need hiking boots, a tent and a reliable guide so you don't end up lost in mountain-goat country.

Upper Waterfall Trek: This is an hour-long trek from Guna Devi temple. It's shorter than Triund, but harder. Leave the kids behind for this one, people.  

For the Sights

Apart from the Dalai Lama Temple, the Tibetan Musuem and the Dal Lake (no, the other one), these are a few sights you should check out:

St John's Church of the Wilderness: Built in 1852 in the memory of John the Baptist, the church is set amidst a deodar forest and happens to be the final resting place of Lord Elgin, Viceroy of India and a big fan of Dharamshala. Visit during church hours (10 am till 5 pm) to check out the Belgian stained-glass windows donated by Lady Elgin.

Nowrojee & Sons: Located smack dab in the main chowk, Nowrojee & Sons was built in 1860 by the lone Parsee in the town and served as a club house for British officers. The whiskies and liveried waiters are gone, but the ramshackle structure still holds some relics from the days of the Raj.

For the Events

Take a walk along the streets of McLeodganj, and you'll come across flyers inviting you to Waterfall photowalks and announcements on film and music festivals happening in the area. Do a little research on the net and you'll find cooking classes, massage workshops, meditation and yoga centres…whatever floats your boat.

Feel like giving back? Join one of the many NGOs in the area. From basic education, computer classes and social development to a campaign against the illegal felling of trees, there are many causes you can associate yourself with. It's also a great way to meet people—foreigners and locals alike—and get acquainted with life in McLeodganj free from the trappings of tourism.

And if you need one last reason to visit McLeodganj, there's no other place in the world that is recognized as a natural Tibetan habitat, free from outside influences. A blimp on the political map. A final refuge of a people exiled from their homeland. Here in McLeodganj, this unlikely piece of the jigsaw.