Nestled deep within the towering ranges of the Himalayas, the tiny, sleepy town of Leh, dotted with mud-brick houses and Tibetan gompas (monasteries), is easy to fall in love with any time of the year. But it’s particularly beautiful during the monsoons, which lasts from late June/July till early September. Unlike many other tourist hotspots, monsoon is actually the best time to visit Leh—it’s a rain shadow area, which means it doesn’t get much rainfall. Whatever little there is, happens in short bursts of heavy downpour, but the rest of the time, the skies are a clear, pristine blue, and the air is sharp and crisp against your cheek (temperatures ranging from 10-20 degrees Celsius).
Here are four compelling reasons why you should visit Leh during the monsoon:
White-water rafting on the Indus and the Zanskar rivers is best experienced during the monsoons since water levels remain high all through July and August. You can opt for one of the popular trails (the Phey-Nimo route, the Kharu-Spituk route, the Upshi-Kharu route, among others) and soak up spectacular views of the Ladakh and Zanskar ranges.
Trekking is a way of life for Ladakhis, and is becoming increasingly popular with tourists. May to October is the best time for some of the most challenging treks in the region—Spituk to Stok, the Markha Valley trek and the Kang Yatse trek. It’s best to carry waterproof clothing and climbing gear while on these treks. Yes, the occasional shower might make them a bit more challenging, but the view on the way—steep gorges giving way to snow-capped peaks against a deep azure sky—will be well worth it.
The Ladakhi gompas are a unique amalgamation of Indian, Tibetan and Chinese Buddhism, a fact that is beautifully manifested in its colourful festivals that merge various ancient storytelling traditions. Many of the monastery festivals happen during June to September, the most famous of them being the Hemis Festival (June), celebrating the birth anniversary of Guru Padmasambhava, the founder of Tibetan Buddhism. The spectacle of masked performers, in brightly-coloured outfits, dancing to the growing tempo of rhythmic music, is something you’ll remember for the rest of your life.
Other festivals during this time include the Karsha Gustor (July), held at Zanskar Valley's largest monastery, Karsha; the Pheyang Tsedup (July/August), the annual festival at Pheyang monastery; and the Korzok Gustor (July/August), at Korzok monastery, near Tso Moriri Lake.
While the food in Ladakh is delectable all year round, there is no better time to get a real taste of Ladakhi/Tibetan cuisine than during the monsoon. Indulge in a plate of steaming hot momos and thukpa (noodle soup) while you wait for a burst of rain to stop. Spend a rainy evening at one of the many tiny German bakeries with a book, some butter tea and khambir (local bread), and top it off with some local chang beer later in the night to warm yourself up as the night turns a little chilly.
What to Pack: Carry clothes that are light-weight and dry fast, waterproof shoes, a raincoat and an umbrella. Despite the occasional rains, Leh is still pretty sunny most of the time (and the sun is harsh!), so carry sunglasses and UV protection.
Safety Tips: Although Leh is largely arid, flash floods have become common off late (the 2010 Ladakh floods, for instance), so be sure to check weather reports before travelling. If you’re driving down to Leh via the Manali-Leh road, be prepared for a few delays. The Border Roads Organisation maintains the Manali-Leh road between June and September but heavy rains can wash away parts of the narrow road. In such a situation, vehicles must struggle through slushy bends or wait till a landslide is cleared.
Despite a few challenges, travelling to Leh in the monsoons is an experience like no other. Go now to transport yourself to a land before time, as surreal as it is beautiful.
Sohini Pal Follow
When not busy being a crazy-cat-lady, Sohini likes to travel to unexplored places, taste local cuisine (and try to whip them up later in her kitchen!) and dreams of owning a house in the hills.
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